Day 29

Friday October 15, 2010

Day 29 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Alto do Poio to Samos

Dear Blog Readers,

Did I mention in the previous blog that Alto do Poio was cold - well, I froze last night as there was absolutely no heat at the hotel - stayed in one spot on the narrow bed and dared not more for fear the chill in the room would get under the thin sheets. The tip of my nose froze as I did not want to put my face under the covers - if I don´t get ill from this night on the Camino - I should be okay for the rest of the trek.  My dreams are filled with a mommy polar bear and her cub whom I feed shaved ice to - can you tell what was happening to my poor body and mind to bring on such dreams!

For the first time on the Camino, I dress without showering.  My toes curl on the chilly tiled floor.  We hurry out of the hotel after just a cup of tea - it is dark and we use the lights gifted by friends (thanks Ron and Linda). It is 8 a.m. but the raising sun to the east gives a golden promise.

The path is downhill, but filled with large rocks and cow droppings.  As I gingerly make my way through, as if to offer a reward, tiny purple crocuses line the Camino.  It is again tip-toe through the hamlets - with the thought of having to wash the bottom of my boots as soon as I get to the hotel.

First two hamlets have no café open for breakfast - but finally there is a most clean and wonderful place for a hot chocolate and ham sandwich.

The Camino continues through the forests and on the roadway for some kms.  Again it is slow going for most of the way. Must take an alternate Camino route on the left, as the town ahead has no hotel rooms available - I think there is another festival this weekend. Arrive at Samos around 3 p.m. It is another long day for a short trek of 20 kms.  At this point there are only 129 kms left - about 5 days if all goes well, to Santiago.  Cannot believe it is almost over. Take a photo of my aching feet - veins are pulsating.

Blessings from the Camino,

Yasmin

My personal thoughts for today - Samos has a large Monestary so I´ll get my unwashed body showered - yeah, and get over there to get some photos.  The standing joke on the Camino is - what do pilgrims do when they get where they are going for the day?  The answer - they walk!

Day 28 - all is fine, just no computer to post blogs!

Thursday October 14, 2010

Day 28 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Vega de Valcarce to Alto do Poio

Dear Blog Readers,

Up early today to have a quick breakfast at the panaderia across from the Casa Rural where we spent the night.  Low hanging fog fills the morning - but must get going as today is the big ‘climb’ to the peak of El O´Cebreiro which takes the pilgrims into Galicia, the final province on the Camino.  It is quite chilly for the first 2.7 kms. - trekking becomes difficult as Camino trail is steep, filled with large rocks.  But I stop often for the breathtaking scenery - very like Switzerland - rolling green meadows filled with sheep and cows wearing bells.  Clank, clank rings over the mountainside.  The Camino again travels through several small hamlets - now filled with sheep pellets and cow patties - the smell is overwhelming and the going is not only tough with the steep climbs but now pilgrims must dodge the cow patties.  Gosh for the first time I understand the job of dung-beetles - do they ever do a good job on cow patties!

Again the guide books lie - after the peak at El O´Cebreiro, trek is supposed to be downhill - cow patty - it climbs and climbs - cross into Galicia and continues to climb. Now in the hamlets Celtic music fills the streets - very unusual. Their roots must go back to some olden times when the Celts came to invade or trade.  We are above the clouds. Finally, after one horrendous steep climb, as the poor pilgrims on the trail huff and puff up the narrow track, we arrive at the top of Alto do Poio.  The hotel where we will spend the night is across the road.  An Englishman (Dick) says we are at 4, 440 ft - it is actually cold but the sunset is jaw dropping at this height.  Lulu and Joan arrive, but continue on down to the next town. Trek has taken 7 hrs. for 20 kms. but adjusted for the numerous climbs it is more like 28 kms.  There are about 149 kms. to Santiago.

Blessing from the Camino,

Yasmin

My personal thoughts for today - As I journal today’s walk I check the guide book.  It states there is nothing in the history of Galicia to point to the Celts ever being here.  Most strange - so where did they get the music and magical folklore?  Fairies, elves, witches and wizards abound in every store.   

Day 27

Wednesday October 13, 2010

Day 27 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Villafranca del Bierzo to Vega de Valcarce

Dear Blog Readers,

Today is only an 18 kms walk, so get a later start after the usual breakfast, leaving after 9 a.m..  The sun is showing promise and the weather forecast is for a few clouds and sunny - a lot different from one week ago, so I´m thankful for small mercies - no rain.  Just outside of Villafranca the Camino breaks into 3 routes.  The first is recommended for ‘fit’ hikers only and is on the left - ha, since neither Rick nor I are one of those that route is ruled out, even though it is called the ‘Dragon’ and snakes up and down mountains and through forests offering the best views of the valley below.  The second route goes right, also offers views but it has three mountains to hike up before it joins the third route 10 kms up the valley.  We must climb El O´Cebiero tomorrow and since it is the highest direct hike up on the Camino, I vote to take route three, straight ahead, which follows a secondary road to the hamlet where we’ll spend the night.

Most of the novels I read on the Camino talk about this route being dangerous as it travels along the roadway with no shoulders for pilgrims.  However, since the last book, the Spanish Government has opened up much of the north by building a super highways - so commercial trucks and most of the traffic now use the freeway and this secondary road is less used.

The Camino stays along the road with a lovely swift flowing river below.  This helps to dull the noise of the odd traffic using the secondary road.  The trek goes through several hamlets - some so small if you blink you miss it - however to get to one hamlet, the road meanders through a forest of giant chestnut trees, now bursting at the seams - prickly burrs and fallen leaves blanket the trail.  Just pass the chestnut forest, there is a birch forest, also with giant trees being harvested - logs line the Camino and soon the track passes the mill,where they are taking care of tree business.

The sun is up and hot, my several layers of warmer clothes are removed.  Up overhead the sky is so blue, it is like a Saskatchewan sky - a plane high overhead looks like a silver bullet set on slow motion mode - it is a great moment on the Camino.

Soon the hamlet comes into view - however before we see the Casa Rural hotel, where we are to spend the night, my whole vista is filled with the highest, bridge I have ever seen - this is the highway spanning two mountains, with the hamlet in the valley below.  You can hear the far off clump-clump sounds of trucks driving overhead along the super highway.  You will have to see a photo of this bridge to believe it - I cannot even guess how high up it is.  

Like all Casas Rural - the key is somewhere else as the owners don’t live in the house.  Key for this one is at the ‘panaderia’ the bread shop across the road, in the lower level of a beautiful house.  We learn the owners live above the bread shop, when we collect the key and have a sandwich for lunch.  Head for the house to play catch up on the laundry.  There is actually a washing machine to use - no dryer - but clothes lines are strung across the side yard.  The pilgrims, still on the road,  wave as they go by while I hang socks.  I take photos of the inside of the Casa Rural and the bridge overhead.

Later, the lady at the bread shop, where I´m using internet to blog, says the bridge is 80 metres high.  Also learn we are sharing the house with Lulu and Joan.  The Casa has a kitchen but we are not allowed to use it, so will wait for the ladies and head off to dinner in the center of the hamlet.

Trek 18 kms today - about 180 kms to get to Santiago.

Blessings from the Camino,

Yasmin

My personal thoughts today - Trekking today seemed so easy compared to my first days on the Camino.  My body and mind are now used to the routine, from the usual breakfasts to the end of day laundry and blogging.  This daily routine is not taxing on my body, so leaves my mind free to travel inwards and think about my life, family and friends.  What a wonderful gift to my soul.

Day 26

Tuesday October 12, 2010

Day 26 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Ponferrada to Villafranca

Dear Blog Readers, 

I am up early to have breakfast and get a taxi back the 8 kms. to Ponferrada to start today’s walk.  The weather forecast is for a little sun and clouds, but no rain.  Taxi drives to the other side of Ponferrada and we begin to walk.  A little chilly so I wear my mitts and a fleece top.  The guide book says flat, however it is up and down hills all the way.  Track is rocky, but it is not too hard, as there is still no rain.  The two lovely things today are - the birds, who are out and singing.  They sit without fear low in the trees and I can see they look like red breasted finches.  They sing a  lovely song.  I stop and tell them they are lovely singers - the other thing is that on either side of the trail are rolling vineyards growing the old fashioned way, not trellises.  There are markers saying the fields grow Cab Franc - so Rioja is not the only region growing Spain´s grapes!

Just pass a village, I have to stop to take a photo of a house built right across a river - just bizarre!  As the Camino travels along a secondary road, there is honking from behind and a parade of tiny cars come up the hill, drivers and passengers wave at the pilgrims on foot - seems the cars are also on their way from St. Jean to Santiago - must be a car club - look like small box type European cars! Rain spits for a few minutes but no downpour.

At the top of the hill before descending into Villafranca, we visit a lovely old church (Iglesia de Santiago) with a wonderful statue of St. James dressed as an ancient pilgrim.  Lots of pilgrims are in the church, lighting candles in tribute to St. James - I do too, getting a bit emotional about the fact I have less than 200 kms. to walk to Santiago.

Trek 23 kms today - off to Vega de Valcarce tomorrow, only 16.5 kms.

Blessings from Santiago,

Yasmin

My personal thoughts for today - At the Romanesque Iglesia de Santiago there is a Puerto del Perdon (a door of pardon) for any pilgrim unable to make it Santiago, due to injury or illness.  This is heart warming, as I can just imagine the disappointment of any pilgrim unable to make it all the way.

Day 25

Monday October 11, 2010

Day 25 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Molinaseca to Ponferrada

Dear Blog Readers,

Well, after the epic day of walking yesterday, take it easy today, even though I feel great and the feet, legs and body are holding up just wonderfully.  Sleep in to 8 a.m. Have breakfast (the usual) and set off for Ponferrada, 8 kms. away.  There is a Knights’ Templar Castle in the city I want to visit - it has been restored after being burnt with all the Templars inside.  Not much along the path, surprised to see vineyards here in this region of the mountains.  Scenery is very like British Columbia, vineyards along the side of the mountains, where I presume they get the most of the limited sun.  Maybe a bit of micro climate area. Step over many Maple Leafs on the Camino.  Make it into the city only to learn it is Monday and the Templar´s Castle is closed on Mondays and won´t be open until 11 a.m. Tuesday - long after I´m on the road again.

Stop to have a hot chocolate and take a photo of what pilgrims do best on the Camino - have a coke! Visit the Basilica instead and wonder a bit about the Catholic religion - Rome issued the orders to kill all the Templars and take their wealth, and here in the Basilica all the crosses are Templars (even the Masons’ symbols are on the floor at the entrance) and a statue of Mary Magdalene is at the feet of the crucified Christ - guess Church uses the symbols  to their advantage when money is the name of the game - remember it is church that titled Mary Mag. a prostitute!

It is a national holiday tomorrow, Tuesday, so we get some supplies at the supermarket and take a cab back to Molinaseca and the hotel.  Invite Lulu and Joan to have dinner at the hotel tonight.  We are all feeling like chicken in lieu of Thanksgiving turkey.

Trek only 8 kms. today.  Off to Villafranca tomorrow, 23 kms. away. Almost down to the last 200 kms. to Santiago.

Blessings from the Camino,

Yasmin

My personal thoughts for today - As a Catholic, I am truly puzzled at the Catholic Church - their preaching of the interpretation of the Bible seems to go out of the door here in Spain - it is do as I say not as I do!  I have discovered over the years I’m becoming more spiritual, than religious. 

Day 24- Happy Thanksgiving Day, Canada

Sunday October 10, 2010

Day 24 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Astorga to Rabinal but make it to Molinaseca

Dear Blog Readers,
Blog is one day late.
Well, this turns into an interesting day on the Camino - hold on to your hat if you’re wearing one - you will not believe what happens today. The day begins like the other days on the Camino - up early in for  breakfast, but it is Sunday so there is no toast, I get a croissant instead.  We have to get a taxi back to Astorga to walk to Rabanal about 22 kms. away. Get to Astorga and begin to walk the Camino, a steady climb up from the Meseta.  The temps are changing as it grows cooler.  Stop for a hot chocolate at an Albergue. On either side of the Camino heather is in full bloom - guess they like the cooler temps.  Pilgrims are leaning into the steady climb.  I hold my Camino stick up, thinking this is because in the beginning of my trek I was actually attacking the Camino.  Now, I’m walking the Camino.
The last 3 kms. climb into Rabanal is up a steep, rocky climb - several pilgrims use the cool forest to take a lunch break - we plough on and arrive in the hamlet by 12:45 p.m.  Now it becomes interesting - we stop at the only place open - an Albergue - ask for a taxi to take me forward to the next town, Molinaseca - there were no hotels due to the holiday.  Well, here the Camino steps in on a well planned day - Sunday, NO TAXI - not to go back or forward!
I walk 22 kms. not counting the climbs - and there are about 25 kms. to Molinaseca.  Nothing in between to talk about - no towns with hotels, only two stops with Alberques, and a steady climb up to the highest mountain pass on the Camino.  I am feeling great - so does Rick.  The sun is shining so we decide to take up the Camino’s challenge.  I have a small bite to eat, drink a coke, purchase a sandwich for the road and continue.  Well, I don´t have a clue what happened next.  Maybe the coke kick in - or my work on the previous Camino treks come into play - but I go into first gear and never stop.  I want to thank Ursela for the mountain climbing advice - I don’t need it, or my Camino walking stick - I climb up and up in high gear - never out of breath or tired.  Someone hangs a swing ‘time to stop and play’ the sign says and I do.  I believe the climb is about 5,000ft - the guide book says- 4,934 ft above sea level.  Just know I climb several mountains this day and feel on top of the world, literally.  We leave Lulu, Joan and Tanya in Manjardin at the final Albergue no rooms at the hotel and continue on.
The decision to go on has one sad point.  The climb takes us pass the Iron Cross, where Pilgrims can leave stones for themselves and loved ones. Unfortunately, since I am not supposed to walk this path until tomorrow, the stones given to me by friends and family in Canada, Arizona, France and Spain, plus those I had collected for loved ones along the way are all in the bag sent forward to the hotel in Molinaseca.  So as I crest the mountain and spy the cross, I improvise.  I stop to pick up pebbles for each person on my list plus a few more for those I do not know. I place each on the huge rock pile, calling out their name as I add them to the pile.  I will carry the rocks I have all the way to Santiago and find a place to leave them with prayers for all who asked me. Call the hotel and the owner says we are about three hours away.   The rest of the walk according to the guide books, is a steady downhill - again these books lied.  For all the down, there were more climbs.  We are now in no men´s land. Leaving the cross the only other person is a strange hermit looking man with a black dog ahead - who stops at the only Albergue, which comes into view and it is so dilapidated - and scary looking we do not stop.  Hurrying downhill the foliage becomes thicker and I notice the hermit is now behind with his dog - yikes, I say a silent prayer for protection and ask Rick to stop to take a drink and let the man pass.  At the next mountain top the hermit turns around and heads back - to the Albergue I guess and we continue to walk.  We cross to the other side of the mountain range and need to put on rain gear.  We watch a dark cloud crashes into the mountain top and the weather turns.  We are in the clouds and the rain, which was absent all day finally comes.  The going is tough.  Here again the guide books lie - the steep downhill is filled with ROCKS, not small stones.  I am literally running down - again without using my stick, I traverse the descent without mishap while Rick runs into problems, twisting his ankles and having problems with the entire Camino.  And still it goes on down - We are now on the road for five hours - two pass what the hotel owner told me and still we go down.  We break through the top of yet another mountain range and see far below in the distance a large city.  As we go down so does the sun.  We make it to Acebo a small mountain town about 10 kms. from our hotel - we should stop and get a taxi but my feet, legs and body are holding up, so I continue down the mountain.  Rick is at this time in agony.  Several kms. later when the sun sets Rick cannot go on. I finally call the hotel and ask them to sent us a taxi.  We wait on the side of the road - it is about 2 - 3 kms from the hotel.  Arrive at 8:45 p.m. after beginning to walk at 8:30 a.m.  Trek is over 48 kms. - might have been 50 kms but call it quits 2 kms. short due to the sun setting and it the darkness descending.
An absolutely crazy Camino day - will take it easy tomorrow, as I have no idea how I will feel in the morning, after walking almost 50 kms.  Cannot believe I just accomplished that!

Blessings from the Camino,
Yasmin

My personal thoughts for today - I have to believe for the first time in my life my brains released endorphins into my body.  It is the only way to explain my actions. 

Day 23

Saturday October 9, 2010

Day 23 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Hospital de Orbigo to Astorga

Wake early to get a start on the day.  There are no hotel rooms available in Astorga so must travel back to Hospital after the days’ trek.  Quick breakfast of toast, jam and tea - and off I go.  Dark clouds overhead, forecast is for wind and rain. The pilgrims are off in a hurry to complete the trek before the heavens open up. No such luck before long the dark clouds burst. Heavy rain forces everyone to find rain gear.  The problem is dodging the puddles and small ponds on the trail.  I am so happy for waterproof hiking boots, pants and jacket, and a rain poncho too.  Several kms. later, I need to concentrate walking through a hamlet.  The terra cotta water from the rain comes rushing down the hill with all the manure from the cow farms up above - yuk, there is no tip toeing though the tulips with this stuff - wonder about the hamlet´s drinking water as the stuff continues down into the main streets.  Walk as gingerly as I can. I take some time to make a detour to pat a little calf in a pen drinking milk from a small bucket.  We have it all today, wind, rain, mud, puddles, ponds, small lakes, and finally sunshine - oh for the silver lining in every dark cloud.  Meet a Vancouver woman, Jamie, who she is trekking along the Camino, picking up pilgrims’ garbage as she walks.  She gets about 3 bags per daily walk.  She says she is giving back to the Camino - life sure gives you some wonderful people on the path. Make it to Astorga in time to see a wedding in the city square. Fall is definitely in the air - it is cooler and the birch trees show signs of the foliage changing colours.  Air is also cooler.  Thinking of Thanksgiving tomorrow in Canada - no turkey here!  Trek 17 kms. today - the entire area is in a festival mode, reason why there are no hotel rooms in any town forward for the next four days - take a taxi back to Hospital.  Tomorrow will taxi back to Astorga and hike for about 22 kms. then have to take a taxi forward to the next town - then backwards the following day to hike to the same town again - the National Holiday on Tuesday is to celebrate Columbus discovering America - in America everyone goes shopping on Columbus Day - here everything comes to a stop so the nation can celebrate!

Blessings from the Camino,

Yasmin  

My personal thoughts for today -With the hood up and the rain playing a pit-pat tune upon my head I let my boots find the path of least resistance along the small rivers running downhill. I use the time to pray for all who need some prayers at this moment.  It is a wonderful experience.