Day 22

Friday October 8, 2010

Day 22 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela.

León to Hospital de Orbigo

Dear Blog Readers,

Sorry it is actually day 22. 

Have a fabulously delicious breakfast - you have no idea how fantastic it is to eat eggs, ham, fruit, juice, cheese etc. for breakfast instead of stale toasted baguette, jam and tea.  Staying at the 5 star hotel for my day off really pays off.

Take a taxi to get to the outside of León as most of the guide books talk about taking your life in your hands if you try to walk out of the city because of the Camino competing with the roadway for a few kms.  Leave the hotel at about 8 a.m. and begin the trek close to 8:30 a.m. at a village, La Virgin del Camino.  An old abandoned church steeple has attracted storks to build nests.  The Camino is filled with small rocks and splits into three routes.  Decide to stay in the center or original route to the next stop.  This route travels along a secondary roadway, which over the past three days had been quiet - not so day!  It feels like walking along the 401 in Toronto - voom, voom! I have no time to enjoy the fields along the Camino - with rain threatening all day - a small sliver of blue remains in the distant sky and I focus on it when I cannot find a washroom in the first town.   To make matters worst, the Camino crosses the roadway several times - it is like taking your life in your own hands?  One thing about Spanish drivers - they slow down for no one.  Pilgrims are just a speck on the roadway - these drivers are too busy looking to pass the big transport trucks. Finally, find an Albergue for lunch and a washroom break. 

The trek is supposed to be 25 kms. but at the hotel, the correct number is 29 kms.  Wow, no wonder I hurt when I climb into the tub to soak my aching feet. Have dinner with a lovely Spanish family, from the north coast, walking the Camino.  Tomorrow I will leave the Mesetas and climb into the mountains of Galica - most say it is a beautiful, green province, but the TV warns it receives the most rainfall in Spain.  On one of the mountain tops pilgrims are invited to place rocks as an iron cross symbol to have sins forgiven.  I will place several rocks I brought for myself and friends from home when I climb there two days from now.  I will add others for anyone needing help with health issues or just some good luck. 

Blessings from the Camino,

Yasmin

My personal thoughts for today - I accomplish a milestone today - trek 29 kms.  I am pooped, but elated.  Just 283 kms to go.  Hope to be in Santiago, without any health problems, by Oct. 23, 2010.  You may hear me hollering from your homes - when I finish this trek!

Rest Day Reflection

Thursday October 7, 2010

Rest Day on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

León

Dear Blog Readers,

Retrospective to date -

Camino History Cont. :- St. James found he was having a hard time convincing the local Spaniards in the Northern Provinces to convert to Christianity - neither Myth nor legend can decide how far he walked, but what is spoken of, is St. James grew despondent at his lack of success and travelled back to Jerusalem, where he was promptly caught and beheaded by Caliph as (most of the apostles where either beheaded or crucified after the death of Jesus). It is said some of the Apostles stole St. James body and took it across the land to the Bay of Biscay to launch it off into the sunset, and the end of the world, which in those days everyone thought the world was square. However, the tide took the coffin unto the shores of northern Spain, north of Finnisterra (End of the World).  The coffin was found on the shores awash with scallop shells, hence the shells worn on the pilgrims’ backpacks to this day is a signal to identify pilgrims.  Seems like someone recognized the body in the coffin as St. James and took it inland and buried it in what is now called Santiago - later a hermit discovered the coffee and the body entombed under the huge Cathedral de Santiago, the site where Christians from all over Europe and the East began to trek towards Santiago - St. Francis of Assisi even made the trip. Pilgrims learn about the Templars, who at one time guarded the pilgrims making the journey to visit the shrine of St. James in Santiago.  

The Camino :- The path, which exists now has been worn across the land through the past two thousand years by pilgrims walking to Santiago.  The Spanish Government has the Camino path traveling into each and every hamlet, village, town and city in the area.  Twice now I´ve had to take a bus across areas noted in the guide books as highly dangerous for pilgrims to walk, as it is actually along the road or highway, where you compete with the traffic for space to walk.

The Spanish People and Culture :-  As mentioned before, most Spaniards are welcoming, giving the pilgrims a ´Buen Camino´ greeting as we go by.  The most difficult thing remains finding the food to eat when you are hungry.  Pilgrims must adhere to the strict Spanish siesta, so if you get into a town between 3 - 5 p.m. you are out of luck.  Between 5 - 7 p.m. the whole town comes to the nearest café for a shot of coffee (your spoon could stand up in it) or a glass of some aperitif. Here is something Canadians would not understand.  The Spaniard stands or sits at the bar - opens the packages of sugar for their coffee, and promptly drop the empty containers on the floor.  If you go up to the bar you have to wade through a garbage heap of paper to get close.  I asked the bartender the other day why the people do it and he just shrugged  - a Spanish girl at the next table told me it is just that Spanish people are dirty - which made me ask - ´but do they do that at home?´ And she too just shrugged. Everyone also smokes - everywhere, my clothes, hair, even my skin smell when I return to my room from using the cafe’s computer to post my blog.  However it is the 8 or 9 p.m. dinner schedule, which has been hardest to deal with for all the pilgrims. Most just head to the grocery for a baguette and some cheese or, buy some tapas (usually some ham and cheese or egg/potato pie), and head off to bed for an early start the next day.  One part of the Spanish culture also giving me a hard time is the stray cats in each hamlet, village, town or city.  The poor dogs are left in lots by themselves tied to a fence.  When the dogs here you coming they bark and when you see them their tails are wagging, but you have to just wave and keep going.  Along the trail there is a lot of garbage created by the pilgrims - unlike me taking along all my used tissues and empty bottles, many just drop it on the trail.  I´m sure at sometime someone comes along to clean it up, but it is discouraging to pass so many places covered with litter.

I want to note here I still have not been able to use the farmers’ fields as my bathroom like so many pilgrims - my bladder is doing a great job at holding it until the next town or hotel.  I think there are 312 kms. left to reach Santiago.  I´m going to try to do that in about 14 -16 days, with no more rest days, depending on health, the weather and the mountain passes of course.  Up ahead the  weather looks threatening, rain and cold.

Today in León take in the sites, the wonderful stain glass windows at the Cathedral and even go shopping for a fleece top and rain coat - after the rain yesterday not looking forward to a repeat soaking.

Hope everyone is well.

Blessings from the Camino -

Yasmin

Day 21...

Wednesday October 6, 2010

Day 21 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

El Burgo Ranero to León

Dear Blog Readers,

Leave the hotel after a quick breakfast at 8 a.m. - croissant, jam and tea - the sunrise is beautiful in the east, but dark overhead and a chilly wind is blowing.

We all hurry off, as the wind picks up the dust in the streets of the deserted hamlets as the pilgrims hurry off to the next town.  We have to use our headlights as the Camino is very dark. Nothing on the way for the first 13 kms. but after only 2 kms. a slight rain begins and the sky is now quite dark.  Then it begins to pour, everyone and everything is wet - pilgrims hurry on in the down pour.  Walk with Marcella, then Tanya, an stunning Irish redhead, who lived once in Galicia, the last province we’ll trek through. Through the rain we chat about life, and what to expect in Galicia. 

Everyone stops for a hot chocolate in the hamlet at the 13 kms. marker - then hurry on to a small hamlet outside of León, where we can take the bus into the city center as no one on the trail wants to continue walking in the wet - guide books warn of the lengthy trek into the City’s centre.  By noon, we are in the town and wait for the bus, everyone is so cold and wet no one is talking or happy.

Check into the beautiful, Parador de San Marcos, a Monastery converted into a 5-star hotel and head for the room and a hot shower.  A lovely maze below our window.  Will enjoy my last rest day here in León - and shop for warm clothes for the mountains, which are coming up in a week´s time, as the weather forecast has not been good about the province of Galicia.

Trek for today 20 kms. what an interesting day today!

Blessing from the Camino,

Yasmin

My personal thoughts for today - It is interesting listening to each pilgrims story on the Camino.  Tanya’s story is no different from just about every person you meet on the path.  I did not expect to meet so many young people making this pilgrimage trek, all searching for answers or the next direction to take in their life.

Day 20!

Tuesday October 5, 2010

Day 20 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Sahagún to El Burgo Ranero

Dear Blog Readers,

First of all - Happy Birthday to my sister, Linda - Tony please let her know I´m okay and doing well, I know she has been worried about me and this trek.

Today is another day on the Meseta - I cannot understand why many pilgrims take buses to bypass these area on the Camino.  Most say the areas are too flat and boring - I find it wonderful to stare across the plough fields and see nothing but sky and rolling fields.  Just awe inspiring as far as I´m concerned and I´m glad I did not let other pilgrims talk me into skipping the Mesetas.

No big climbs today, just a steady up to the plateaus and more fields as far as the eyes can see.  Chilly and no sun for some time, but thank goodness, no rain.

Mind boggling to see the scope of development on the Mesetas as the Spanish Government expands the fast train from Madrid to León.  Wow, talk about mega project - for about 17 kms in the distance or close up, are giant trucks like to see at the mines in Canada, hauling terra cotta red dirt from one location to another to build the bridges and over-passes for the trains.  It is just jaw dropping.

Make it to El Burgos del Ranchero at small hamlet, not much to photograph - one of the Japanese men (the singer) is ill - picked up a stomach bug. Matilda, is at the Albergue here, she has a sore hip.  Lulu and Joan are here too. 

We will have to pick up the pace. The Camino will leave the Mesetas behind and  pilgrims must climb glacier mountains to reach Santiago.  Places to stay continue to be difficult to find - so will have to trek longer between hamlets and towns.  León tomorrow after trekking 8 days without a rest - may not stop to rest again until Santiago.  Will have to see how I feel.  The feet and body are holding up well, cannot complain - lots of pilgrims are hurting, with bloody blisters, and other ailments. Keeping my fingers crossed.  Trek today 17 kms.  Arrived at 1 p.m.    

Take care all - Blessings from the Camino,

Yasmin

My personal thoughts for today - Meet a young man from Latvia on the walk out of Sahagún.  He has walked all the way from his home, by the time he makes it to Santiago he would have been walking for 5 months. There are so many stories on the Camino - seems like everyone is walking the path, searching for answers!  Like yesterday, meeting Matilda, an 18 year old from Switzerland, walking alone, trying to decides her future, asking for advice from the Camino.  By the way, Rick thinks she is a dead ringer for Julia Roberts so we tease her about researching her next movie disguised as a pilgrim. 

Day 19 - Past Half Way!!!!

Monday October 4, 2010 

Day 19 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagún

Dear Blog Readers,

Miss breakfast at the Monasterio - the taxi from yesterday, arrive at 8 a.m. one hour before the appointed time so takes us back to Calzadilla de la Cueza.  

It is sunny but windy again today.  Have toast (white bread again), jam and tea in Calzadilla - the only restaurant/hostel in the village.  Lots of pilgrims are here again, having breakfast and then leaving for the day’s walk.

Leave close to 9 a.m. to trek to Sahagún, across another Meseta and into small hamlets.  Trek winds across beautiful scenery and in one area hugs a secondary roadway again for several kms.  At a hamlet called Terradillos do los Templarios, pass an Albergue, which states it stands on the half way point of the Camino. Hurray - crossed the half way point! 

Here is where the last Knight´s Templar is said to have been dragged from his home by King Philip ll of Spain - tortured and murdered after the King stole all his riches - this raid was sanctioned by the church in Rome.

Rick and I stop for lunch and celebrate with Marcella and the 3 Japanese men, who cross the half way marker with us.

No rain but it is a longer trek - as Sahagún comes into view the trek goes off for about 1 km so pilgrims can cross a old Medieval bridge.

Arrive at 3 p.m.  Trek 22.5 kms.  Completed 412.5 kms. in 19 days - only 375.5 kms. to Santiago.

Blessings from the Camino,

Yasmin 

My personal thoughts for today - Can hardly believe I’ve crossed the half way point.  At the start of the trek, wrapping my head around such a thought was next to impossible, however here I am, half way to Santiago.  No problems, no blisters, and in good health - I am blessed!

Day 18 - mini update!

Sunday October 3, 2010

Day 18 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Carrion de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza

Dear Blog Readers,

This blog is one day late.

Today is set to be a quick and wonderful day over the Meseta.  More flat prairie rolling hills is the order of the day.  After having a lovely breakfast at the Monastery, leave around 9 a.m.  Marcella is walking with us today as her friends have gone on to Leon by taxi.  However, wind is coming up and about 1 km. down the trail the wind really picks up and then the rain begins to pepper down on all of us pilgrims.

No chance to take too many photos with the rain and wind.

Walk steadily for 17 kms. in gale force winds and rain.  My hat has a hard time staying on - and my scarf floats straight off my neck. Trek pass rolling hills but cannot get out of the weather. A little lean-to comes into view and several pilgrims are hurdled together. Enjoy a peach and continue along the Camino with my head down and steps quickening.

Made it to Calzadilla de la Cueza soaked to the bones.  The small hostel is crowded with wet, miserable pilgrims. Damp backpacks are everywhere.  Surprise to learn I’ve walked the 17 kms. in 3 hours - way to go Yaz!

After a quick hot chocolate, take a taxi back to the Monastery for another night - Marcella shares our ride.  I cannot sent this update as the rain and wind continues, and everything comes to a standstill.  Make a quick visit the Museum again at the Monastery - after taking a photo of a beautiful rainbow outside my window.

Almost half way on the Camino.

Blessings from the Camino,

Yasmin

My personal thoughts for today - The heavens opened up with strong winds and for me the Camino showed another face from other days.  Makes me wonder what the way is like during Spring, Summer and Winter.  Learned that as this is a Holy Year, the Camino expects over 10 million pilgrims to make the pilgrimage this year.

Day 17.

Saturday October 2, 2010

Day 17 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Fromista to Carrion de Los Condes

Dear Blog Readers,

I wake up this morning and open the window of the hotel room - it looks onto a square with a lovely 16th Century church - the morning star is overhead and the sky is showing the first streaks of dawn in the distance.  A pilgrim from the Albergue next door sits in the square with arms raise saying a silent prayer, a wonderful sight.  So many pilgrims are on this trek looking for answers to questions on ´life´- I feel really blessed to have chosen to do this at this time.

Have toast, jam and tea for breakfast at the hotel.  I´ve eaten more white bread in the last 17 days than I´ve done in the last 10 years in Canada - gosh the Spaniards love white bread, not a whole wheat or grain bread in sight.

Leave the town around 8:40 a.m. This is a short day only 19 kms.  The Camino is well marked and is along a secondary country road for the whole trek to Carrion de los Condos.  The way is very flat with no big climbs.  Find myself walking 5 kms. per hour and I´m not going too fast.  Pass rolling hills and plough hay fields - pass the first corn field today - turnips yesterday and corn today, however not many vegetables on your plate during meals. Have I mention that the Spaniards not MacDonalds invented french fries - no matter what you order it comes with french fries - they are good, but like white bread I´ve eaten more french fries in the last 17 days than I have in the last 10 years at home.  Walk through a few hamlets, closed up tight - even the church doors are closed - it is Saturday don´t know where everyone has gone.  See the town up ahead in the distance.  Staying at a 16th Century Monastery converted into a first class hotel with a museum I must visit - my room is in the cloister section - it is wonderful, looks down on the enclosed courtyard, where you cannot go - lots of laundry to do as I didn´t do any yesterday, thinking this is a bigger town and there must be a laundromat somewhere, no such luck, so must now do double the washing - no hangers that will remove from the closet, so I´m hanging things on the open window, a sock sails out in the wind and falls in the garden - yikes must sneak in and retrieve.

Again no hotels ahead so will stay at the Monastery two nights as only an Albergue after the 20 kms walk tomorrow.  Will get a taxi back to Carrion de Los Condos and sleep here tomorrow night, taking the taxi back to where I stop the previous day and walk to the next town, 26 kms away.  Will not take a rest or day off until I get to Léon which is two days away.

Thanks again for all the comments, Richa sends them to me since I cannot access my own blog from Spain, they still think I´m someone trying to break into my own account, so have been sending my daily blogs to Richa to post to you.  Hopefully she´s been checking for spelling mistakes, sometimes the internet café is so filled with smoke and smokers my eyes water and I smell yucky by the time I leave.  Sometimes the hotels have internet and I blog from there. 

Arrive in town at 1:40 p.m. and grab some lunch.  Now will get an early night.

Blessings from the Camino,

Yasmin

My personal thoughts for today - Tonight I’m sleeping in an old Monasterio de San Zollo.  There is a beautiful carved ceiling in the Renaissance cloister.  You can’t help but appreciate the history of places like these along the Camino.