Day 10 - only 30 more to go!

Friday September 24, 2010

Day 10 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Najera to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Dear Blog Readers,

Still unable to access the blog.  Sending blogs home to Richa for posting.  Can’t sign in, they think I’m an impostor trying to hack into my own blog.

Leave the hotel around 8 a.m. this morning after a quick breakfast. Making sure I get breakfast now.  Last Monday walked the whole day without any food, only dried fruits, nuts and water because the town where I had to stop, was closed up tight, so all the Pilgrims walked on without getting anything to eat.

Steep steady climb out of the city pass the red clay cliffs, the history of these hamlets, villages, towns and cities are mind boggling - the visit to the Templars’ Cloister built right into the clay cliffs, with its jaw dropping interior and gold gilded altars are a sight to see.  Trek pass several vineyards again, however today Camino leaves the Rioja region and continue to the next province in the area.  After several hours pass the first potato field being harvested by a farmer.  Vineyards are left behind.  All morning rain threatens, but make it to the next town, 9 kms away without a drop of rain.  Stop to get a sandwich but first pass a golf course where an entire community is built to support the course, however not one of the more than 50 plus high rise buildings are filled with tenants - a very ghost like area and sad to see, maybe the failed economy got to here too.  Finally as I leave the cafe after lunch the heavens open up - not only rain but a nasty cold, biting wind.  Travel through this for about an hour before the sun decides to beat back the dark clouds.  See Santo Domingo de Calzada long before I get there.  Have to walk pass a potato co-op.  Yuck nothing like rotting potatoes to greet the Pilgrims.  Made it to the city by 2:30 p.m. - Lovely place so going out to check the churches and restaurants.  Trek 21.2 kms - give up on checking the steps.  The knee brace work well and my trek is without pain.  Check into a Hospice run by nuns - go a laundry mart to do the wash, yeah for small mercies!  Hurray, finish my first 10 days, now only 30 to go - to date I have walked 215.8 kms.  Thanks everyone for the well wishes and thoughts of how to get my lost photos!

Blessings from the Camino,

Yasmin

My thoughts for today - Giving thanks to my secret agent AF for the gift of scallop shells, they are doing a great job on our backpacks.  And to Lorraine, super thanks for gifting me Psalm 23 and a pocket cross. I carry both with me everyday.

Day 9

Thursday September 23, 2010

Day 9 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Navarrete to Najera

Dear Blog Readers,

I did not get to a computer yesterday - so this blog is one day late.

After a quick tea and croissant at the hotel bar, I take a photo of the beautiful church doors as I leave Navarrete heading to Najera.  It is a short walk today, only 17 kms. and at the end maybe a little rest.

Not too many steep up or down hills today - stop for a hot tea 6 kms along the trail. A steady climb uphill now.  This is the Rioja region - Spain’s wine country, so still passing lots of vineyards on the path today.  Grapes are on the ground, not from pruning, but actually cut off and dropped on the ground, even though the vines are heavy with more grapes. Seems like there is a glut of grapes on the market. Have I mentioned how inexpensive wine is here?  

Walk part of the trail with a giant French pilgrim who ambles along the Camino and still gets there at about the same time as all the other pilgrims.  He takes long strides - one of his is three of mine. Feet holding up well, but for a few days my left knee has been painful when going uphill, will get a knee brace in Najera tonight and try it tomorrow.  Steading downhill into Najera, which is visible for miles before I get there.  Strange city built into the ´red clay´hillside.  There are actually look outs in the hills, seems back in the 1930s people actually hid in the hills during the Franco reign and Civil War.  Here too there are stories of Charlamagne and the Knight Roland.  Pilgrims pass a large rock said to have been thrown by Roland as he killed the giant, Ferragut, a descendant of Goliath.

Arrive at 1:30 p.m. - early but laundry to do so it dries for the morning.  There is a Templars cloister build into one of these clay banks.  Teresa and I check it out after laundry.  The church has a fantastic statue on one of the altars of St. James.  Gosh he was so young!  Trek 17 kms. my steps still not working, I think it has quit the Camino.  My clothes are beginning to slip off, I think I’ve lost weight.

Blessings from the Camino,

Yasmin

My personal thoughts for today - I am surprised at the Knight’s Templar churches and crosses used across Spain.  A Spanish King asked and got permission from the Catholic Church to killed the last Templar and take his land and wealth, yet Spain seems to have embraced everything Templar, a little hypocritical in my view! 

Day 8

Wednesday September 22, 2010

Day 8 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Viana to Navarrete

Dear Blog Readers,

After eating a light breakfast at the hotel, leave Viana at about 8:10 a.m.  Pack a sandwich and apple lunch for on the road.

Today it is very overcast and clouds hang low, trekking across the country with no burning sunshine and heat is good.  Make good time over the up and downhills on the way to the City of Logroño, pop. 150,000.  Trek for about two hours before making it to the outer industrial area of Logroño.

The City is huge. Camino travels through the older part of the City, where there is a lovely Church of Santiago dedicated to the pilgrims.  The churches here are out of this universe, ornate, gilded and large with jaw dropping interiors and art work, making our own churches at home look rather lame.

This should have been an easy trek day, but once in the City the going gets very tough.  Travel though the streets are hard, feet, legs and knees hurt like mad.  Had not realized just how much I appreciate the dirt tracks in comparison to the paved sidewalks.

Most of the other Pilgrims complain about the trek.  Everyone is exhausted.  We walk through a park which goes on for kms. and kms. At the end of the park I sit and have my sandwich lunch.  Outside the city is a very polluted lake, no one seems able to appreciate the scenery.  Finally out of the park and on to the next town, 10 kms. away.  I jump out of my skin as I walk passed a vineyard being harvested. A cannon in a vineyard explodes as I walk by.  Boy, did that bring back memories of being in the Okanagan!

Another factor to add to the Pilgrims misery - the sun comes out with a vengeance!  It gets hot and sticky. Finally arrive in Navarrete around 2:30 p.m. Trek 22.4 kms Steps didn´t work today.  Off to Najera tomorrow, only 17 kms or so, praise the Lord, a short day - (I hope)!

Blessings from the Camino,

Yasmin

p.s. The 29th. is Raise a Reader Day - thanks to all the volunteers!

My personal thoughts for today -An interesting thing, on the dirt Camino path alongside the highway to Navarrete there is a fence for about 2 kms. covered in hand made crosses.  Pilgrims of yesterdays used whatever was available and made crosses and stuck them into the wine fence.  I add my cross to the thousands.

Day 7

Tuesday September 21, 2010

Day 7 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Los Arcos to Vianna

Dear Blog Readers,

Leave Los Arcos around 8 a.m. after stopping for tea and a croissant.  On the way out of town realize I forgot my ring and earrings at the hotel.  Hurry back in the hopes of not losing them, but telling myself that like the photos of the first 4 days trekking, I cannot find on my camera that if I don’t find the ring and earrings than so be it, they are just material things.  However, they are on the night table where I left them.  So, head out of town again.

Today it is very hot, no shade trees along the paths.  This makes for a tiring endless day with many steep uphills and just as steep downhills.

Travel through one hamlet called Sansol - in the town square there are trees and benches.  The two Americans, Stan and Eugene, who answers everything `yes mam` are in the square with the other young people trekking together today, among them is Vanessa from Quebec, Lars from Holland and Kathrine from England (near Windsor she says).  We met her the first night in Roncesvalles.

Lots of grapes being harvested along the vineyards and pilgrims help themselves to the bunches of grapes in the open vineyards. We are now in wine country.

Long before arriving in Viana, it can be seen in the distance, which makes the last 5 kms. take forever.  An American said it best the other day in the square, where many pilgrims sat having a beer - Walking the Camino is the most grueling thing a person can do to their body - by trekking 20 - 24 kms. every day for 34 - 44 days.  In a person´s lifetime they never subject themselves to this type of physical endurance.  I do understand now what happens to the Iron men and women during the race in Penticton.

Arrive in Viana around 2 p.m. stopping at the first bar with other pilgrims to have something cold - Coke never tasted so good. Trek today 20.5 kms.  Steps 20,766 (those uphills and downhills). 

Blessings from the Camino,

Yasmin 

p.s. Remember Raise a Reader Day is Sept. 29th.

My personal thoughts for today - I think the worst part of walking the Camino appears to be the last 5 kms.  After six or seven hours walking, when the body and mind are exhausted, the last push seems unconquerable.

Day 6 - need your help!

Monday, September 20, 2010

Day 6 on the Camino de Santiago de Campostela

Estella to Los Arcos

Dear Blog Readers

After the day of rest in Estella, my feet and body feel wonderful, ready for today’s trek Los Arcos.  Leave Estella early, 7:50 a.m. so no breakfast at the restaurant at Hotel Yerri.  It is still dark, sun still out of sight in the east. It is chilly.

Travel uphill to the west out of the City with other pilgrims.  About a hundred metres up there is a Fuente del Vino (a wine fountain attached to a winery). Pilgrims line up for a free drink of wine to start their day - yuk!  There is a live webcam for you to wave at friends and family back home.  I just walk on by and by the time the sun comes up I am an hour away.  Lovely walk today along gravel trail, not too many mountains so going up and down much faster.  The scenery is beautiful, pass plough hay fields, pilgrims’ stone creations, vineyards and olive groves. Lots of butterflies and of course my newest friends, snails!

We do not find a town with a bread shop open to have breakfast - so make do with cookies, nuts, bananas and water - made it to Los Arcos by 1 p.m. I have lots of time to ask if someone has a Mac computer to help me download my photos for the blog site. Run into Eugene, a young man from New York we met the first night in Roncesvalles, who with his friend Stanley (we didn’t meet) are making a documentary on their Camino trek.  Stan has his Mac, yeah!

However, to my horror, all those internet cafes I visited asking to help, must have done some harm to my camera disk, as when I finally get to the photos, it seems I no longer can find photos of my first 4 days on the Camino.  I am hoping someone can help me discover if they are still there. At the last internet place the man moved the lock on the disk, only today did I realize he had locked the disk - I unlocked it but when I went to view the photos only the ones from yesterday morning and today are on there.  Help! Does anyone out there know how I can retrieve my lost photos?

Feeling good. Trek 23 kms today.  Steps work - only 18,459 steps, much longer strides today on the level tracks. Off to Viana tomorrow, 20kms away.

Blessings from the Camino,

Yasmin

My personal thoughts today -Needless to say I’m sick to my heart - all my photos of the first days are in limbo somewhere, my hope is the man at the last cafe, did not somehow erase them.

Day 5...

Saturday Sept. 18, 2010

Day 5 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Puenta la Reina to Estella

Dear Blog Readers,

Today is a good day!! It is not raining! But, Rick who has been my rock, has decided not to walk today - he is feeling the effects of yesterday’s climbs.  He will take the bus to Estella.

I get on the trail late, after sleeping in - set out at 9 a.m. Walk out of the City across the Puenta de Reina bridge, take lots of photos with 3 of the 4 Korean ladies.  Fourth one is up ahead somewhere. However, the ladies are into eating and stop a few steps outside the city limits for a snack.  With a full tummy from breakfast I continue without them. By the way, staying at some of the hotels is a good thing.  Not only do they offer dinner for the price of the room, breakfast is also included and most pilgrims staying at the hotel are treated to a cold breakfast, which includes ham, cheese, all manner of bread, cereal, yoghurt, fruit and cookies or small cakes.  These cello wrapped items always make their way into pilgrims backpacks for a snack later on the trail.

I trek up and down mountains today feeling a lot better.  Could it be the body is adjusting to the daily 8 hours walking?  I am developing a good pace and can keep it up unless the climb is too steep, then I slow down.  I have decided the Camino can break your spirit if you plan too much or fight the trek.

Meet some Irish women today on the Camino and walk part of the trail with them, then off they go and I continue at my pace.  The sun is shinning today, no rain, thank goodness for some mercies, as several parts of the trail could have been dangerous today. Pass lots of vineyards and plough fields.  In a small community (Cirauqui) as I eat my lunch (a ham and cheese sandwich thanks to the hotel´s breakfast table) I witness a lovely Basque ceremony for young boys making their first communion - parents, grandparents and boy wear white pants and shirts with a red Basque kerchief tied around the neck.  The boys carry a bouquet of flowers in one hand and a small baguette in the other.  The town´s church bells peal for about 5 minutes inviting the families into the church.  Absolutely lovely. Korean ladies are stopped again having lunch.  I use their cell to call Rick and he will meet me in the next village.  On the trail I meet one of the two Irish men who passed me in the forest when I had my pulled muscle.  We stop to admire a Roman ruin up on top one of the climbs.  His backpack is all wrong and I adjust it for him.  He is grateful.

Pilgrims on bikes are a bit of a problem, they speed by downhill at such past paces that you have to hope they don´t take your pack as they zoom by at breakneck speeds.  They do shout ´buen camino´ as they go by so one can´t be too mad, they are after all on the Camino too.

By the way, we are all known as ´peregrinos´ the Spanish word for pilgrims.  In many places there are pilgrims meals, which usually comes with an excellent bottle of Spanish wine.  No, I don´t drink the whole bottle myself, other pilgrims share the table and one bottle of water and one bottle of wine is placed on each table.

Meet with Rick in Lorca, feeling okay, so continue on as he returns to Estella by bus.  I make it to Estella, after 8 hours on the trail.  The Korean ladies are already there and I ask how come - ha, they took a taxi from where they were having lunch.

Trek is 24 kms - steps worked today = 31,213 - my strides are longer today due to no rain.  After 5 days on the trek, tomorrow is Sunday and I´ve earned a day off - so like a good Christian I´m ´resting´ on the sixth day - feet are sore, but body is doing well.

Tomorrow I will attend mass and give thanks for the toes, feet, legs, body and mind for staying in good heath this far.  I will also pray for all those I offered to pray for on my trek.  I´ve completed over 100 of the 890 kms. in 5 days. I am happy with what I´ve done so far!

Blessings from the Camino,

Yasmin

My personal thoughts for today - Walk into Estella today with a couple I first met in Roncesvalles, Dr. Bob and his wife, Teresa - they are both fabulous and I think they are going to become lifetime Camino friends.

Day 4.....

Friday September 17, 2010

Day 4 on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela

Pamplona to Puenta la Reina

Dear Blog Readers,

Day begins at 8 a.m. after eating breakfast, leave the City in a light drizzle, which becomes a constant downfall as the day progresses.
In Cizur Menor witness a man slip on the wet pavement, banging his head on the way down, he is out cold and blood stains the sidewalk.  Pilgrims continue on leaving the wounded man behind.

Up a very steep climb, which passes rolling hills and more farmers’ fields and ancient abandoned structures.  Rain makes stones slippery, climbing is difficult for most times.  With the wet claylike soil sticking to my trekking boots, they get heavy and life becomes miserable.
Climbed through Cuendulain and Zariquiegui, climbing all the way to Alto de Perdon, which normally has lovely views of the surrounding areas. However today with the constant rain, we are in a heavy mist and strong winds, so cannot see anything, but it does feel like the top of the world.
Loud sounds come from the mountain top wind turbines - the Spanish have adopted wind power.  Must go down, since I climb up. Descent travels down steeply over wet slick stones.  Trek through Uterga, Muruzabal and Obanos, before reaching Puente la Reina around 3:30 p.m.
I´m convinced the Spanish Government has made a deal with all the hamlets, villages, towns and cities along the Camino because even though we go through each on the way and the kms. seem to stay the same for eons.  I am tired and exhausted, but make it with just  sore feet and aching muscles.  Trek 23 kms today.  Total to date 91.5 kms in 4 days.  Steps did not work today so just image the steps I did for today.
Heading to Estella tomorrow, 23 kms away. Once there, I will take my first day off trekking the Camino and rest.

Blessing from the Camino,
Yasmin

My personal thoughts today - Signs are very deceiving along the Camino - walk pass a sign saying 14 kms to go and after an hour trekking, a sign up ahead says 14 kms to go!